Allai is a valley in District Batagram, NWFP, Pakistan. Allai valley is bounded by Kohistan on the north and east, by the Kaghan valley, Nandhiar and Deshi of Deshiwals on the south, and by the Indus on the west. The October 8th 2005 earthquake badly affected this valley as well. The valley of Allai is divided from Kohistan on the north by a range of mountains rising to over 15,000 feet, and from Nandhiar and Deshi by another range running from the Afghanistan border to the Indus above Thakot. The average breadth of the Allai Valley is about 15 miles, and the total area 200 square miles. Wheat, barley, corn and rice are grown, and the mountain slopes at the eastern end covered with forest. Cis-Indus Swatis are the dominating tribes of the Allai range. Khan culture is dominant in Allai valley.

Bandala is a valley in Jammu & Kashmir located about 26 kilometres from Bhimber. The valley is stretched from river Tawi in the east to the Samahni valley in the west. The Reech Pahari (bear mountain) runs parallel on the northern side and the Baghsar Mountain on the southern side. The valley is about 10 kilometers long and about 1.5 kilometers wide.

It joins the valley of Samahni at Sara-e-Saadabad and Chitti Mitti. Many streams flow through the valley producing cascades, rapids, falls and natural swimming pools. These pools are very popular among the local youths not only for the swimming but also for fishing. The fertile land and mild climate can produce a variety of crops or trees but the valley contains many mango trees. Farming is still the major source of staple food for the area with two crops grown annually i.e. wheat and Corn. The high literacy rate has improved the overall living standards of the people. With most of the people working for the government or going overseas especially to the Middle East and Europe, dependence on farming for income has greatly reduced but people still cultivate the land for the food.

Many birds and animals are found in the valley including Peacocks, Partridges, Quail, Birds of Paradise, Falcons and Eagles etc. The enclosing Reech Pahari serves as the sanctuary for many animal species like Tiger, Hyena, Wolf, Jackal, Foxes, Python, Monkey, Deer, Stag and Impala etc. The valley is home to many hamlets, of which Bandi, Piana, Parati, Ghawalian are more famous.

Chitral, or Chatrāl, 35°52′52″N, 71°47′53″E, is the name of a town, valley, river, district, and former princely state in the former Malakand Division of the Northwest Frontier Province of Pakistan.

Chitral Town, capital of the Chitral District, is situated on the west bank of the Chitral (or Kunar) River. The town is at the foot of Tirich Mir, the highest peak of the Hindu Kush, 7,708 m or 25,289 ft high. It has a population of about 20,000, while the District (of 14,833 km² or 5,727 sq mi), has a population of about 300,000. The altitude of the valley is about 1,100 m or 3,700 ft.

The easiest access to Chitral is in the southwest along the Chitral/Kunar valley towards Jalalabad. This route is open all year and provides direct access to Kabul. However the Pakistan-Afghanistan border prevents this being used as an internal route to Peshawar and the south.

The other routes are over mountain passes. To the south, the Lowari Pass (3,200 m or 10,499 ft) leads 365 km (227 mi) to the region of Peshawar; this is now a road road. In the north, the easiest route during summer (it is closed by snow in the winter), and the only one which allows the use of pack animals, runs over the Broghol Pass (3,798 m or 12,460 ft) to Afghanistan's Wakhan Corridor. To the east, there is a 405 km (252 mi) route to Gilgit over the 3,719 m (12,201 ft) Shandur Pass. And in the west, the Dorah Pass provides an additional route to Afghanistan. The territory is home to rare falcons and the snow leopard, and is cut off by snow from the rest of the country for six months a year.

Population
The main tribe, the Khos, speak Khowar (or Chitrali), one of the Dardic languages, which is also spoken in parts of Yasin, Gilgit and Swat. Pashto is also spoken and understood by few in the city. Chitral is known for the famous Kalash tribe that resides in three remote valleys west of Ayun, which is ten miles down from Chitral town.

The culture is Islamic. Women are nearly invisible except to their male relatives and other women. They do not walk the streets of town, so men or children do the shopping. Travel requires the company of a close male relative and sometimes the wearing of a burqa.

Sports
Polo is a popular sport in Chitral and an annual polo festival take place between Gilgit and Chitral at the highest polo ground in the world, at the Shandur Pass every year.

History
A British garrison, sent from Gilgit to oversee the smooth transition of power to the heir apparent after a ruler was murdered, was besieged in Chitral Fort for over a month in 1895.

Hunza Valley is a valley near Gilgit and Nagar vallies in the Northern Areas of Pakistan. The Hunza valley is situated at an elevation of 2,438 metres (7,999 feet). The territory of Hunza is about 7,900 km² [3,050 sq, miles]. Karimabad is the main town which is a popular tourist attraction in Pakistan because of the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains like Rakaposhi 7,788 m (25,551 ft), Ultar Sar (7,388 m), Bojahagur Duanasir II (7,329 m), Ghenta Peak (7,090 m), Hunza Peak (6,270 m), Darmyani Peak (6,090 m) and Bublimating (Ladyfinger Peak) (6,000 m).

History
Hunza was formerly a princely state in the northernmost part of the Northern Areas of Pakistan, which existed until 1974. The state bordered the Gilgit Agency to the south, the former princely state of Nagar to the east, China to the north and Afghanistan to the northwest. The state capital was the town of Baltit (also known as Karimabad). The area of Hunza now forms the Aliabad tehsil of Gilgit District.

Hunza was an independent principality for 900 years. The British gained control of Hunza and the neighbouring valley of Nagar between 1889 and 1892. The Tham (Chief) of Hunza escaped to China.
The British retained Hunza's status as a 'principality' until 1947. According to Habib R. Sulemani, the people of Hunza were ruled by a local Mir for more than 900 years, which came to an end in 1974.

Although never ruled directly by neighbouring Kashmir, Hunza was a vassal of Kashmir from the time of Maharaja Ranbir Singh of Jammu and Kashmir. The Mirs of Hunza sent an annual tribute to the Kashmir Durbar until 1947, and along with the ruler of Nagar, was considered to be among the most loyal vassals of the Maharaja of Kashmir.

Geography
The Hunza valley is situated at an elevation of 2,438 meters (7,999 feet). For many centuries, Hunza has provided the quickest access to Swat and Gandhara for a person traveling on foot. The route was impassable to baggage animals; only human porters could get through, and then only with permission from the locals.

Hunza was easily defended as the paths were often less than half a meter (about 18") wide. The high mountain paths often crossed bare cliff faces on logs wedged into cracks in the cliff, with stones balanced on top. They were also constantly exposed to regular damage from weather and falling rocks. These were the much-feared "hanging passageways" of the early Chinese histories that terrified all, including several famous Chinese Buddhist monks.

Climate
The temperature in May is maximum 27 C (81 F) and minimum 14 C (57 F) and October maximum is 10 C (50 F) and 0 C (32 F). Hunza's tourist season is from May to October, because in winter the Karakoram Highway is often blocked by the snow.

Transport
Today, the famous Karakoram Highway crosses Hunza, connecting Pakistan to China via the Khunjerab Pass. Traveling up the valley from the south, Hunza is the land to the left, and the former state of Nagar to the right of the Hunza River. Regular bus and van services operate between Gilgit and Karimabad. PTDC Office at Gilgit and Islamabad arranges tours and transport for visitors.

Spectacular scenery
Hunza is one of the most exotic places in Pakistan. Several high peaks rise above 6,000 m in the surroundings of Hunza valley. The valley provides spectacular views of some of the most beautiful and magnificent mountains of the world which include Rakaposhi 7,788 m (25,551 ft), Ultar Sar (7,388 m), Ghenta Peak (7,090 m), Hunza Peak (6,270 m), Darmyani Peak (6,090 m) and Bublimating (Ladyfinger Peak) (6,000 m). Hunza Valley is also host to the ancient Baltit Fort and Altit Fort. Baltit Fort stands on top of Karimabad whereas Altit Fort lies at the bottom of the valley.

The valley is popularly believed to be the inspiration for the mythical valley of Shangri-la in James Hilton's 1933 novel Lost Horizon.

People of Hunza
As much as the valley is famous for its beauty, the people of Hunza are noted for their friendliness and hospitality. The local language is Brushuski but most people understand Urdu and English. The literacy rate of the Hunza valley is believed to be above 90%, virtually every child of the new generation studies up to at least high school. Many pursue higher studies from prestigious colleges and Universities of Pakistan and abroad.

Most of the people of Hunza are Ismaili Muslims, followers of His Highness the Aga Khan. The Hunza region is home to people of three ethnicities:

• The Gojal area is mainly populated by Wakhi speakers;
• The Shinaki area is mainly inhabited by Shina speakers;
• The Kanjut area is mainly inhabited by Burushaski speakers.

The Burushaski language is understood throughout Hunza. It is a language isolate. In addition to Burushaski, there are also speakers of Wakhi, Shina and Domaaki.

The people of Hunza are collectively termed Hunzakuts, while Burusho refers only to the speakers of Burushaski. The majority of the people are Ismaili Shia Muslims who are followers of the Aga Khan. The present Aga Khan has provided a lot of funding for the area to help with agriculture and the local economy.


The Kaghan valley is a valley in the Mansehra District of the North-West Frontier Province of Pakistan. It has a reputation as a place of great natural beauty. This valley also suffered from the earthquake disaster on 8th of October 2005 last year.

A vacation in the Kaghan Valley, the Himalayan hide-away, located northeast of the Hazara district of Pakistan's North West Frontier Province, is an unforgettable experience. The Kaghan valley is named for the town of Kaghan rather than for the Kunhar River which flows to the length of the valley. The Valley extends for 155 km rising from an elevation of 2,134 metres to its highest point, the Babusar Pass, at 4,173 metres. The local population is friendly and easygoing and speaks Hindko (a language spoken by the hill people in Hazara), Pushto, and/or Urdu. The region is Alpine in geography and climate, with forests and meadows dominating the landscape below peaks that reach over 17,000 feet.

Its mountains, dales, lakes, waterfalls, streams and glaciers are still in an unbelievable pristine state. It is indeed an unspoiled paradise! This is why it can be a deeply satisfying experience to spend a few days in Kaghan. Kaghan is at its best during summer (months ranging from May to September). In May the temperature is: maximum 11 C and minimum 3 C. From the middle of July up to the end of September the road beyond Naran is open right up to Babusar Pass. Movement is restricted during the monsoon and winter seasons. The Kaghan area can be reached by road via the towns of Balakot, Abbottabad and Mansehra. In Balakot, one may find buses and other transports to reach Kaghan or Naran.

The road from Balakot ascends along the Kunhar River through lovely forests and the villages of Paras, Shinu, Jared and Mahandri. The valley is somewhat narrow along this stretch and the views are limited but as you ascend, the surrounding peaks come into view. One spot that is quite famous for its spectacular view and scenery is 'Shogran'. This village, sorrounded by peaks and forests, is east of the main Kunhar River. It hosts the famous Siri-Paya Mountain with breathtaking views at its top.

Fishing
Fishing is the chief sport in Kaghan. Brown Trout and Mahasheer are stocked in pure silvery waters between Kaghan and Naran. The Kunhar river trout is considered to be the best throughout the sub-continent. Fishing licenses are issued by the 'Fisheries Department at Naran' or by the 'Trout Hatchery' at Shinu.

Naran
Most visitors to Naran pay a visit to Saiful Muluk Lake (10,500 feet) 6 miles east of town. If the road is open you can arrange transportation by jeep. If the road is closed, it is an easy, gradual three-hour walk, and the lake is a lovely spot for a picnic.

If you are walking directly up-valley from Naran to Babusar "Top" the loveliest spots to camp on this trail is at "Lulusar Lake". Located just before the final grade to Babusar Top and surrounded by tall peaks, Lulusar is just one many high elevation lakes that sit along the crest of the ridge.

People
One of the most interesting features of the Kaghan area is the Gujar (herder) families you'll see along the way bringing their animals up to the summer pastures. The Kaghan valley is one of their most popular destinations in Pakistan, and you'll find them camped along the road in their tents or moving up the valley with their goats, sheep and pack animals. For those with time and interest, this peaceful, lovely valley offers an interesting and enjoyable destination.

Kunar Valley or Chitral Valley is a valley in Afghanistan and Pakistan. Main geographic features are jungles and mountains.

The Kurrum River flows through the Kurrum Valley across the Afghan-Pakistani border west to east (crossing from the Paktia Province of Afghanistan into the Kohat border region of Pakistan) at 33°49′N 69°58′E, about 80 km southwest of Jalalabad.

The Kurram Valley in ancient times offered the most direct route to Kabul and Gardez. The route crossed the Peiwar Pass 3,439 m (11,283 ft) high, just over 20 km west of modern Parachinar, but was blocked by snow for several months of the year.

The valley is highly irrigated, well peopled, and crowded with small fortified villages, orchards and groves, to which a fine background is afforded by the dark pine forests and alpine snows of the Safed Koh. The beauty and climate of the valley attracted some of the Mogul emperors of Delhi, and the remains exist of a garden planted by Shah Jahan.

In the early 19th century the Kurram Valley was under the government of Kabul, and every five or six years a military expedition was sent to collect the revenue, the soldiers living meanwhile at free quarters on the people. It was not until about 1848 that the Turis were brought directly under the control of Kabul, when a governor was appointed, who established himself in Kurram. The Turis, being Shiah Muslims, never liked the Afghan rule.
During the second Afghan War, when Sir Frederick Roberts advanced by way of the Kurram Valley and the Peiwar Kotal to Kabul, the Turis lent him every assistance in their power, and in consequence their independence was granted them in 1880.

The administration of the Kurram Valley was finally undertaken by the British government, at the request of the Turis themselves, in 1890. Technically it ranked, not as a British district, but as an agency or administered area.
Two expeditions in the Kurram Valley also require mention: (1) The Kurram expedition of 1856 under Brigadier-General Sir Neville Chamberlain. The Turis on the first annexation of the Kohat district by the British had given much trouble. They had repeatedly leagued with other tribes to harry the Miranzai valley, harbouring fugitives, encouraging resistance, and frequently attacking Bangash and Khattak villages in the Kohat district. Accordingly, in 1856 a British force of 4,896 troops traversed their country, and the tribe entered into engagements for future good conduct. (2) The Kohat-Kurram expedition of 5,897 under Colonel W. Hill. During the frontier risings of 1897 the inhabitants of the Kurram valley, chiefly the Massozai section of the Orakzais, were infected by the general excitement, and attacked the British camp at Sadda and other posts. A force of 14,230 British troops traversed the country, and the tribesmen were severely punished. In Lord Curzon's reorganization of the frontier in 1900-1901, the British troops were withdrawn from the forts in the Kurram Valley, and were replaced by the Kurram militia, reorganized in two battalions, and chiefly drawn from the Turi tribe.

In recent years the Kurram Valley has once again assumed a very strategic position and has been an area of intense military activity between the Taliban and American and allied forces.

The Miranzai Valley, also Hangu, is a mountain valley situated in the Kohat and Hangu districts in the North-West Frontier Province of Pakistan. It is made up of two valleys, draining from the southwest into the Kunam and northeast into the Kohat Tai. It is divided into upper and lower Miranzai. It extends from the Zaimukht and Orakzai hills to the Khattaks. It is 40 miles in length and is 546 square miles in area. East of Hangu is made up of numerous smaller valleys. To the west of Hangu, consisting of the entire upper portion of the valley, is a broad and open plain, bare of trees. There are many ravines in this area. The area surrounding the valley has many inhabitants, mostly comprising the Bangash and Orakzai peoples.
British military expeditions occurred in the area when it was still part of India in the late 19th century due to disturbance.

The portion of Miranzai east of Hangu village consists of numerous small and well-cultivated valleys. To the west of Hangu, including the whole of Upper Miranzai, the country is a broad, open valley. The country is full of ravines towards Thal. Miranzai forms the meeting place of many different tribes, but its chief inhabitants are the Bangash and Orakzais.

Nagar Valley is a valley near Gilgit Valley and Hunza Valley in the northern areas of Pakistan.

Location
The Nagar valley is situated at an elevation of 2,438m (7,999 feet). Nagar Khas is the main town and the capital of the former Nagar state. The Spantik peak (Golden peak) can easily be seen from here.
Gulmet is the popular tourist attraction in Nagar because of the spectacular scenery of the surrounding mountains like Rakaposhi at 7,788m (25,561), and Diran.

History
Nagar was formerly a princely state in the northernmost part of the Northern Areas of Pakistan, which existed until 1974. The state bordered the Gilgit Agency to the south, the former princely state of Hunza to the east, China to the north and Afghanistan to the northwest. The state capital was the town of Nagar Khas (also known as uyum Nagar) The area of Nagar now forms the Nagar 1 upper Nagar and Nagar 2 lower Nagar and forms two tehsils of the Gilgit District.

Nagar was an independent principality for 1200 years. The British gained control of Nagar and the neighbouring valley of Hunza between 1889 and 1892. The Tham (Chief) of that time Azur Khan sent in exile to Kashmir.
The British retained Nagar's status as a principality until 1947. The people of Nagar were ruled by a local Mir for more than 1200 years, which came to an end in 1974. Although never ruled directly by neighbouring Kashmir or the British, Nagar was a vassal of Kashmir from the time of Maharaja Ranbir Singh of Jammu and Kashmir. The Mirs of Nagar sent an annual tribute to the Kashmir Durbar until 1947, and along with the ruler of Hunza, was considered to be among the most loyal vassals of the Maharaja of Kashmir.
Nagar and Hunza were collectively called buroshall and their capital was capal dosuk. But after the reign of the Miyor Khan his sons divided Buroshall into Nagar and Hunza and declared the river as the border: Muglot became the king of Nagar and Kirkis became the king of Hunza.

On 25 September the state was dissolved.

List of Nagar kings

• Muglot
• Azur
• Shamsheer
• Sultan Khan
• Fazal Khan
• Duad Khan
• Ali Dad
• Khamal Khan
• Rahim Khan
• Barbarullah Khan
• sultan Khan
• Azur Khan
• Habi Khan
• Alif Khan
• Zafar Zahid Khan
• Mohammad Khan
• Azur Khan
• Sikandar Khan
• Soukat Ali Khan

Climate
The climate of Nagar remains pleasant from the mid April to the end of September. The maximum temperature in summer during the day is 13C. The weather becomes very cold during the winter, mainly from the October to end of March. The minimum temperature can be -14C.

Nagar, Pakistan
Nagar is a town in near Gilgit and Hunza valleys in Northern Areas of Pakistan. It is a part of the Gilgit District. Nagar was the capital of the former State of Nagar.

Today, the famous Karakoram Highway crosses Nagar, connecting Pakistan to China via the Khunjerab Pass. The road follows the Hunza river for some distance through Nagar and into the Hunza region.

Naran Valley is located in North-West Frontier Province, Pakistan. The Kunhar River, swollen by glacier melt, meanders its way through the Naran Valley. Makra Peak, Malka Parbat, and Saiful Muluk are the main attractions.

Rupal Valley, 35°13′38.76″N, 74°42′26.60″E, is a valley in the Astore District of Northern Areas of Pakistan. It lies in the south of Nanga Parbat. It is popular for Nanga Parbat treks from the south which start in the Rupal Valley.

Skardu the capital of Baltistan is part of Northern Areas along with Gilgit Region - and Skardu is one of the districts of Northern Areas. Skardu borders Kargil district in east, Astore in South, Kashmir in southeast, and Gilgit district in the west. It is located in the wide (10 km) and long (40 km).

Skardu Valley, in the very place in which the Indus River receives the Shigar River waters. Indus River flows from tibet, passes through Ladakh and then enters Pakistan through Baltistan. Skardu is also a district of Baltistan. Situated at nearly 2500 m (8,200 feet), the town is surrounded by gray-brown coloured mountains, which hide the 8,000 metre peaks of the nearby Karakoram Range.

Major hub for expeditions
Skardu is one of the two major hubs of all trekking expeditions in Northern Areas, a region that includes four of the fourteen Eight-thousander peaks (8,000m and above) of the world. The other hub is Gilgit. The tourist season is from April to October.

From Skardu two roads lead to the Askole and Hushe Valleys, main doorgates to the snowy giants, and to the huge glaciers of Baltoro, Biafo, and Trango. Here begins the way for climbing legendary mountains such as K2, Gasherbrums, Broad Peak and the Trango Towers. This makes the town a major summer tourist hotpoint, which results in many hotels and shops in the area, and in the trekking season, expensive prices. Treks to the highest plains in Pakistan, Deosai Plains either start from Skardu or end at Skardu. At a height of about 4,100m (13,500 feet), these are the second highest plains of the world, second only to Tibet. In local Tibetan language, Deosai is called Byarsa which means the 'summer place'. Approximately 5000 square kilometer in area, the plains extend all the way to Ladakh and provide habitat for snow leopards, ibex, brown Tibetan bears and wild horses.

The town
The town is built up along the main road, and both sides of this grow up the New Bazaar (Naya Bazaar) in which hundreds of shops offer almost everything. To the west one finds Yadgar Chowk, with an ugly monument, and from there, the quarter behind Naya Bazaar, in the right hand side is Purana Bazaar, the old one. Following west from Naya Bazaar, there is a polo ground, and next Kazmi Bazaar. Skardu appears as a dusty town, but its people are colourful. Streets are full of men (almost no women), mainly Balti Tibetans, but many other ethnicities pack the streets of the bazaars: Pashtun, Punjabis, Hunzakuts, and even Uyghur, due to the close proximity of Baltistan to these regions. Since Pakistani occupation, advent of Pathans and Punjabis is on rise, threatening livelihood and cultural identity of the local Tibetan Baltis. Some of the names of the mohallahs in Skardu town are Khache-drong, Khar-drong, Olding, Kushu-bagh, Pakora, Thsethang, Sher-thang, Nagholi-spang etc.

Climate of Skardu
The tourist season is from April to October. The maximum temperature is 27C and the minimum (October) 8C. However, in December-January, the temperatures can reach below -10C. The Skardu valley is snowbound during the winter months. Often the road blocks at Karakoram Highway cut the road link (Karakoram Highway) of areas like Gilgit, Skardu and Hunza from the rest of the country. Although Baltistan is connected with Ladakh and Kashmir with four or five routes, it has only one road connection with Pakistan. Once this road is blocked, you are cut off from rest of the world. Sometimes blockades are for weeks, but more often, opened within 2 - 5 days time. The local people are demanding from Pakistan to open roads towards India so tourists do not remain stuck and Pakistan is reluctant to do that. The air travel is also disturbed by the unreliable weather of Skardu and on some occasions flights are be delayed by several days because of weather. Further, air travel is very expensive nowadays.

Skardu Fort (Kharpochhe Fort)
Skardu Fort or Kharpochhe Fort is a fort that lies on the eastern face of the Khardrong or Mindoq-Khar ("Castle of Queen Mindoq") hill 40 ft above Skardu city. There is an old mosque inside the fort as well. The fort dates from the 8 century CE. A view from these monuments brings into vision the entire valley, the Indus River and the settlement below. Rmakpon dynasty rulers of Baltistan built the fort and it was a seven-storey building. Sikhs burned it in the 18th century AD. It resembled the Ladakh fort of Leh which is 9 storey tall. The Potala of Lhasa Tibet, Leh fort and Skardu fort are all built on same designs. The name Kharpochhe means the great fort. Khar in Tibetan means castle or fort and Chhe means great.

Lakes in Skardu
There are three lakes in Skardu:

Katsura Thso Lakes
There are two Katsura Lakes; the Upper Katsura lake and the Lower Katsura Lake. The latter is also known as the Shangrila Lake. The Upper Katsura Lake is not as famous as the Shangrila Lake.

There is resort at Lower Katsura Lake that is known as Shangrila Resort. It is another popular destination for tourists in Pakistan. The resort has a unique kind of restaurant that has been set up inside the fuselage of an aircraft that crashed nearby.

Satpara Thso Lake
Satpara Thso Lake or Sadpara Lake is the main lake in Skardu Valley which supplies water for the town of Skardu. It is one of the most picturesque lakes in Pakistan. In 2002, the Government of Pakistan decided to build a dam on the Satpara Lake. The Government allocated Rs. 600 million ($10 million) for Satpara Dam project in 2004's financial year. The progress on the project, however, has been slow


Well-known personalities like late literary giant Ahmed Nadeem Qasmi and columnist Abdul Qadir Hassan belong to this land.

Transportation
Soon Valley is accessible through public transport from Islamabad (M2 Balkasar Interchange), Lahore (M2 Kalar Kahar Intrechange), Sargodha, Khushab and Mianwali.

Lakes
There are two well-renowned Uchhali Lake and Khabikki Lake lakes in soon valley, which now a days are effected badly and drained due to pollution and shortage of natural water resources.

Famous Casts
The most dignified cast of the AWAN tribe settled in Soon valley with Malik as sub cast is used by the locals. Majority of the people are serving in the armed forces of Pakistan. Other professions like education, business and agricultural are also adopted by the locals.

Swat is a valley and a district in the North-West Frontier Province of Pakistan. The capital is Saidu Sharif. With high mountains, green meadows, and clear lakes, it is a place of great natural beauty, and a popular destination for tourists. It was a princely state in the NWFP until it was dissolved in 1969.

His valley and the other areas along the banks of the river Swat, earliest known as Shrivastu, later Suvastu and currently the present name, is also the place of origin of the Shrivastava sub-clan of the Indo-Aryan Kayastha clan.

History
Swat has been inhabited for over two thousand years and was known in ancient times as Udyana. The first inhabitants were settled in well-planned towns. The independent monarchs of this region came under Achaemenid influence, before reverting back to local control in the 4th century BC. In 327 BC, Alexander the Great fought his way to Udegram and Barikot. In Greek accounts these towns have been identified as Ora and Bazira. By 305 BC, the region became a part of the Mauryan Empire. Around the 2nd century BC, the area was occupied by Buddhists, the Indo-Greeks, and the Kushans who were attracted by the peace and serenity of the land. Swat is thought to be the probable birthplace of Vajrayana Buddhism. There are many archaeological sites in the district, and Buddhist relics are common, testimony to their skills as sculptors and architects.

Buddhist Heritage of Swat
The Swat museum has the, the footprints of the Buddha which were found in the Swat valley and, now can be seen in the Swat museum. When the Buddha passed away, His relics (or ashes) were distributed to seven kings who built stupas over them for veneration.

The Harmarajika stupa (Taxila) and Butkarha (Swat) stupa at Jamal Garha were among the earliest stupas of Gandhara. These had been erected on the orders of king Ashoka and contained the real relics of the Buddha.
The Gandhara School is probably credited with the first representation of the Buddha in human form, the portrayal of Buddha in his human shape, rather than shown as a symbol.

As Buddhist art developed and spread outside India, the styles developed here were imitated. For example, in China the Gandhara style was imitated in images made of bronze, with a gradual change in the features of these images. Swat, the land of romance and beauty, is celebrated throughout the world as the holy land of Buddhist learning and piety. Swat acquired fame as a place of Buddhist pilgrimage. Buddhist tradition holds that the Buddha himself came to Swat during his last reincarnation as the Guatama Buddha and preached to the people here.

It is said that the Swat was filled with fourteen hundred imposing and beautiful stupas and monasteries, which housed as many as 6,000 gold images of the Buddhist pantheon for worship and education. There are now more than 400 Buddhist sites covering and area of 160 Km in Swat valley only. Among the important Buddhist excavation in swat an important one is Butkarha-I, containing the original relics of the Buddha. Source *Indo Pak Hist till 1951

Sethana family’s influence started with the advent of their fore father Hazrat Pir Baba Syed Ali Tirmzi in Swat. From 1820, Sethana became place of resistance against the Sikhs and fight continued for 26 years till 1846. In fact, Sethana family dominated the political scene in Usafzai area for 200 years. In 1824, Maharaja Ranjit Singh attacked Sethana itself with 1,00000 soldiers. Syed Akbar Shah CAST (Syed) was born in 1793- ruled Swat till 1857. His total period of rule on Hazara and Swat lasted for 12 years. His capital was at Ghalegai in Abakhel area of Swat. His great grand father Syed Zaman Shah went from Buner to Sethana and after that the family extended from Buner, Malka and Swat to Sethana. In 1841, the great Indus flood destroyed Sethana followed by burning and destruction of Sethana by Sikhs and British and ultimately in 1973 it submerged under Tarbela Dam Lake. In 1852, Syed Akbar Shah fought the British at Malakand. In 1856, a mutiny supported by Nawab of Dir was crushed. In 1856, five hundred British native Infantry soldiers defected to Badshah Sahib Syed Akbar Shah but Akhund Sahib was against them and recommended their departure from Swat. He died at the age of 70 on 11th May 1857 on the day of mutiny in India. The British passed this remark:

“Today we have received bad news of mutiny but the good news is that Syed Akbar Shah has died otherwise the shape of the mutiny would have been different.”

Syed Akbar Shah and his family gave Syed Ahmed Shahid Brelvy total protection and even after the death of Syed Ahmed Shahid his disciples were given protection in Sethana. Syeds of Sethana suffered at the hands of Sikhs and later on British for a very long time. They lost their State and property time and again for the cause of Islam. 2.His son Shehzada Syed Mubarik Shah became the ruler and fought the forces of General Chamberlain gallantly in 1863 at Ambela. He could rule only for one year. At this stage, Akhund Sahib also started conspiring against the family. Infact Akhund Sahib during the life of Syed Akbar Shah started saying that he would not support the family after the death of Badshah Sahib keeping in mind the circumstances and future planning for take over by his family. By this time he had amassed huge properties and created influence by helping public through Badshah Sahib at the same times giving full support to him. The famous Enfield Rifle was used in Sethana for the first time in Subcontinent by the British forces. 3. Syed Abdul Jabbar Shah. Hassan Zai tribes killed his father Syed Mehmood Shah. When he was 6 months old his cousin Feroz Shah came from Malka, attacked Sethana and killed all family male members in 1878. He was removed by a female servant and taken to a nearby village Kia and given protection by Ghulam Khel tribe. At a very young age, he left for India and lived with his stepbrother who was borne and lived in Lukhnow since his child hood. In Azam Garh, he studied with a Persian scholar Maulvi Qamaruddin, Maulvi Nazir ud Din and Maulvi Kabir Ullah who were Arabic and Persian teachers in Banaras. He came back and again went for studies in 1890. In 1897, he took part in Landakai war. In 1899, Nawab of Amb Akram khan appointed him as his Minister at a very young age. After the death of Nawab, his son Khan Zaman Khan became ruler. He married the daughter of Nawab of Amb in 1907. From childhood, he developed love for Islam and history mainly because of his family background. He had photographic memory, whatever, he studied once, he never forgot till his death. He was Hafiz-e-Quran and wrote many books mainly on the history of Pakhtoons (Al Hibrat, Bani Israel and Four Hundred Years old history of Frontier). He went on foot right up to Qundoos north Afghanistan in 1905 to confirm his ancestral history. According to Sir Olaf Caroe, “ he was an authority on the history of Pathans.” In 1903, he went to Delhi and met a very respected personality and Saint Shah Abdul Kher Mujaddi. In 1908, he re-captured Sethana with the help of Nawab of Amb and constructed Fort and house. In 1908, he married the daughter of ruler of Bokhara who had come to Abbottabad after revolution via Afghanistan with the help of Amir Abdul Rehan of Kabul. He ruled Swat from 28 April 1914 to 1918. His capital was at Niphikhel area Bandi Bala. Immediately after taking over as ruler, he organized an Army and proper income tax in Islamic way. Shariat law was to be followed. The Army was properly paid monthly pay. After 2 years in 1916, Mian Gul Abdul Wadood CAST (Gujar) mutinied but was arrested. He pardoned him and Mian Gul fought under his command against Nawab of Dir.He gave in writing on Holy Quran that he would never rise against him. His written statement of request for Pardon duly stamped is still available. He was sent for Hajj but on his return, he conspired with the British and with their active help overthrew him. British have confirmed their help against him and their animosity against Syed family in number of books. In 1912, Sir Sahibzada Abdul Qayum requested him for help for Islamia College. He got Rs. 1,00000/- from Nawab Khan Zaman Khan and gave it to him. Again in 1939, he was exiled by the British to Hyderabad Deccan. The Nizam appointed him as his Defense Minister and remained there till 1945. While he was in Hyderabad, Sahibzada Sahib again asked him for help for Islamia College. He again got Rs. 1,50000/- from Nizam and sent it to him. Mian Gul’s status as ruler was accepted in 1926, although he was supported and installed by the British.

In the beginning of the 11th century AD, Mahmud of Ghazni advanced through Dir and invaded Swat, defeating Gira, the local ruler, near Udegram. Later, when the King of Kabul Mirza Ulagh Beg attempted to assassinate the dominant chiefs of the Yousafzais they took refuge under the umbrella of the Swati Kings of Swat and Bajour. The whole area was being dominated by the Swati/Jahangiri Sultans of Swat for centuries. According to Major Raverty, Jahangiri Kings of Swat had ruled from Jalalabad to Jehlum. After more than two decades of guerilla war, they were dispossessed by the Yousafzais. The majority of the aboriginal inhabitants of Swat migrated to the Hazara region to the east, where Swatis predominate with their surname Swati, reflecting their link to the region.

Demographics
The main language of the area is pashto. The people of Swat are mainly Pashtuns, Kohistanis and Gujars. Some have very distinctive features and claim to be descendants of the army of Alexander the Great.

The people of the Kalam region in northern Swat are known as Kohistanis and speak the Torwali and Kalami languages. There are also some Khowar speakers in the Kalam region. This is because before Kalam came under the rule of Swat it was a region tributary to both Yasin and Chitral and after Yasin itself was assimilated into Chitral the Kalamis paid a tribute of mountain ponies to the Mehtar of Chitral every year.

Tourist attractions
There is a ski resort in Swat at Malam Jabba as well. Malam Jabba is about 40km north east of Saidu Sharif. It is the most popular ski resort in Pakistan. The ski slope is also the longest in Pakistan at about 800m.

Administrative Set up
The region has gone through considerable changes over the last few years. Mainly since the dissolution of the princely state.

Local Politics
In August 2001, a new local government system was introduced by the Military led government of Pervaiz Musharraf, the new system consists of a District Nazim (or mayor) and a deputy Naib Nazim, the district in turn was subdivided into two tehsils. The first is Swat tehsil with 52 union councils and the other is Matta Tehsil with 13 union councils. Each tehsil has its own Nazim and Naib Nazim.

The District Nazim is Jamal Nasir Khan of the Pakistan Muslim League and his Naib Nazim is Malik Sadiq Ahmed. Swats tehsil's Nazim is Fazal Rehman NoNo from the Pakistan People's Party Parliamentaerians. While its Naib nazim is Shah Dawran from the Awami National Party. In Matta Tehsil the Nazim is Abdul Jabbar Khan and Zakir Khan both of the Awami National Party.

Provincial & National Politics
The region elects two Male M.N.A,s and one female M.N.A and seven male M.P.A,s as well as two female M.P.A,s. In the 2002 National and Provincial elections, the Muttahida-Majlis-e-Amal, an alliance of religious political parties won all the seats amidst a wave of anti Americanism that spread after the United States invasion of Afghanistan.

The valleys of Ushu, Utrot and Gabral beyond Kalam, constitute some of the most beautiful parts of Swat. There is good trout fishing around Utrot. Foreign tourists are advised to contact the local police authorities at Kalam before preceding to the valleys of Ushu, Utrot and Gabral.

Swat is ideal for camping, trekking and mountaineering. Permits are necessary, and can be obtained from the Tourism Division, Government of Pakistan, Markaz F-7, Islamabad.

The waters of the Swat River around Kalam and in the valleys of Ushu and Gabral abound in brown trout. Fishing licenses must be obtained from the office of the Assistant Commissioner, Fisheries at Madyan and Kalam.


This area was badly affected by the 2005 Pakistan earthquake and was cut from the outside world as the roads and paths were filled with rubble.

China's largest glacier valley located on the northern slope of the Karakoram Range which is between Xinjiang and Pakistan. The glacier found in this valley is about 41.5 kilometres long, covering an area of 392.4 square
kilometres.

Kalam valley is situated in the upper reaches of Swat, in the North-West Frontier Province (NWFP) of Pakistan.

Kalam, 29 kilometres (18 miles) from Bahrain and about 2,000 meters (6,800 feet) above sea level, the valley opens out, providing rooms for a small but fertile plateau above the river. In Kalam the Ushu and Utrot rivers join to form the Swat River. Here, the metal road ends and shingle road leads to the Ushu and Utrot valleys. From Matiltan one gets a breath-taking view of the snow-capped Mount Falaksir 5918 meters (19,415 ft.), and another un-named peak 6096 meters (20,000 ft.) high. PTDC offers motel accommodation in Miandam, Kalam and Besham.

Bishigram valley is located in Swat, North-West Frontier Province, Pakistan.

Tirat valley is located in Swat, North-West Frontier Province, Pakistan.

Pishin valley is located in Pishin District, Balochistan, Pakistan.

Panchkora Valley of Dir is a valley situated in the North West Frontier Province of Pakistan.

The Panchkora Valley of Dir was the home of early Aryans. Remains of their settlements are classified as Gandhara grave culture.

Talash Valley, 13 KM from Chakdara, is full of Buddhist remains. Buddhist stupas and monasteries which have not been excavated are on both sides of the road towards Dir. At the west end of the valley is Kat Kala Pass. Caroe identified this place with Massaga which was captured by Alexander the Great in 327BC. Here there are remains of massive crumbling Hindu Shahi fort of 8-10th century.

Timargarha, 40 km from Chakdara is the site of excavated graves of Aryans, dating 1500 to 600 BC.

On the west side of Panchkora River is the excavated site of Balambat. Site was in occupation continuously since 1500 BC when Aryans occupied this first time. Houses dated 500 BC have been discovered here. An interesting discovery was fire altars, which shows that people were fire worshippers.

__________________
The Me you have always known, the Me that's a stranger still.